>From: "nicola yeadon" nicola.yeadon.TakeThisOut@ntlworld.com
>But it smokes on start up for about 5 mins then clears, pulls well with no
loss of power.
KLR650's were imported into the USA in 1989, KLR600's were imported in 1984 and
1985...
If the engine has leaky valve guide oil seals, it will smoke on startup and
then quit smoking, just as you describe. Check the on-line parts diagrams at
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.buykawasaki.com" target="_blank">www.buykawasaki.com</a> to view the VALVE
diagram. (I was looking at the diagram for a 1989 KLR-650.) Part number 92049
is the valve guide oil seal...
You will need four of them if you decide to fix the problem yourself...
Replacing valve guide oil seals doesn't necessarily require removing the
cylinder head, but you would have to get the camshafts and tappets out of the
way to get at the top of the valve springs...
(Of course you have to understand exactly how to get the camshafts back into
the proper relationship to TDC, but explaining how to do that is beyond the
scope of what I'm going to say about replacing valve guide oil seals.)
You won't have to remove the exhaust system and carbs, and you wouldn't have to
drain the cooling system if you try these tricks to replace the valve guide
seals:
One old mechanic's trick is to fill the combustion chamber with compressed air,
while the crankshaft is kept from turning by somehow blocking the rear wheel
from turning while the transmission is in 5th gear...
If you put 100 pounds of compressed air pressure into your bike's cylinder
with, say, a wrench attached to the end of the crankshaft to keep it from
turning and you let go of the wrench, the crankshaft will suddenly turn and the
wrench will get thrown across the garage...
A simple trick which requires no compressed air is to push string down into the
cylinder through the spark plug hole while the piston is only part way up
toward TDC on the compression stroke and then turn the crankshaft in the normal
direction until the wad of string is compressed against the valve heads,
keeping them from moving and falling down into the cylinder when you remove the
valve spring keepers...
Then, if you can push down on the top of the valve spring retainer and get the
keepers out, and pull the valve springs out, the valve guide oil seals will be
accessible...
You would need something like a valve spring compressor that has a forked end
that pushes against the valve spring retainer but still leaves room to get a
pair of tweezers down in the retainer to pull the keepers out...
Regular valve spring compressors are designed to push against the head of the
valve though, with the cylinder head off the engine...
Once you have the old valve guide oil seals removed, you can lube the new seals
with grease for installation, but you have to be very careful pushing them over
the ends of the valves and the keeper grooves. You don't want to tear up the
new seal installing it. That's why valve guide oil seals kits for cars have
bullet-shaped piece of thin plastic that go over the ends of the valves while
you are pushing the new valve guide oil seals over the valve stems...
>Dont want to waste money on jobs which dont need doing, any ideas????? thanks
Oil is cheap, the engine only has one spark plug to foul, and that plug is easy
to get at for cleaning, so, if you don't want to bother with replacing the
valve guide oil seals, you can put it off for a while...
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