What's your h-bar width for the woods

On Sep 20, 6:26 am, scrape <scrapeNOTHA... DeleteThis @nc.rr.com> wrote:
> On Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:52:42 -0700, mxphlipper
>
> <mxphlip... DeleteThis @bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >Got a set of KX high ProTaper Contour's from Blanco to try on my
> >KLX450.
>
> >They're cut to 29.5". I used 28.25 on my YZ250.
>
> >What's everyone else using?
>
> Just cut the kid's 31s down to 29.5 plus the width the barkbusters
> add which puts them back close to 31". I may lop another 1/2" off
> each side.
> Maybe.

He didn't tell you that they really liked my 27" bars. Really allows
you to squeeze 'tween the trees. Plus, less to impale you when you
hit the ground.

> ----
> Go fast and aim for where the trees aren't.
> ----


It's a sad day when you guys are talking about shorter bars and we've
just been discussing shorter barrell lengths and still retaining
accuracy past 300 meters.

John
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

On Sep 19, 7:52 pm, mxphlipper <mxphlip....DeleteThis@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Got a set of KX high ProTaper Contour's from Blanco to try on my
> KLX450.
>
> They're cut to 29.5". I used 28.25 on my YZ250.
>
> What's everyone else using?

I use stock width, which is typically 30.5" on most bars. Barkbuster
ends add another inch to the overall width. I cut down my bars a
couple of times, but I came to the conclusion that it is a bad idea
all around. All it really does is remove the room you need to make
your controls and barkbuster mounts fit - god knows it's tough enough
making them fit with stock width bars.

Wider bars means more leverage and subsequently less fatigue, which is
the most important thing for me these days (being old and fat). An
inch makes NO difference when threading through trees, no matter how
tight they are. Anyone who says otherwise is selling something.

JayC
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

> It's a sad day when you guys are talking about shorter bars and we've
> just been discussing shorter barrell lengths and still retaining
> accuracy past 300 meters.

I have a 20" heavy-barrel A2. I expected target-gun performance when
I built it, and outfitted it with a leatherwood mount, raised cheek
piece and 12x scope. Meanwhile, my 16" lightweight collapsible A1 AR,
sporting a screw-in mini-mount and aimpoint sight, was built to be a
screw-around 5 pound plinker. Damned thing is a accurate than my 20"
A2. It irritated the hell out of me for years until I finally gave up
and bolted a 37mm launcher under the 20" to make it into a target-
scoped M203. Weighs a ton, but now when I pull it out at a
competition, I don't have to hit anything, I just go for the "coolest
gun" award (although I actually won with it the last time
out...somehow).

JayC
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 00:59:44 -0700, spodely DeleteThis @hotmail.com wrote:


>He didn't tell you that they really liked my 27" bars. Really allows
>you to squeeze 'tween the trees. Plus, less to impale you when you
>hit the ground.

The first time I rode Spodely's bike, I thought someone had
attached jackhammer bars. After an hour or so, everything else
felt wrong. Barkbuster attachment will take some creativity
though.
>
>It's a sad day when you guys are talking about shorter bars and we've
>just been discussing shorter barrell lengths and still retaining
>accuracy past 300 meters.

It's a sad day when we're talking about getting a bunch of folks
together to ride somewhere between here and Charlotte and even if
you were back in the States, it wouldn't be this state.

You got winter travel plans yet?



----
Go fast and aim for where the trees aren't.
----
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

On Sep 20, 7:06 am, JayC <j....DeleteThis@sysmatrix.net> wrote:
>
> Wider bars means more leverage and subsequently less fatigue, which is
> the most important thing for me these days (being old and fat). An
> inch makes NO difference when threading through trees, no matter how
> tight they are. Anyone who says otherwise is selling something.
>
> JayC

Ride in Louisiana much? Trust me an " makes all the difference. Even
with my 28.25's, I'd have to lean the bike some to make it thru some
single track at Breezy. Ask Jim, this dez boy needs all the help he
can get down here.

I've got triple clamp mounts for the Cycra's, so I don't have to worry
about fitting them in.

I agree with you on length/leverage/fatigue. On my YZ I had a set of
CR Hi protapers mounted in another set of bar clamps for moto. Made
all the difference in the world. Could swap bars in under 15 minutes.
Think I'll do the same with the stock KLX bars.
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

> Ride in Louisiana much? Trust me an " makes all the difference.

Ride in New England much? Take a tape measure into the woods with you
next time. I'll put money on it NOT making a difference. Seriously -
do it.

> I've got triple clamp mounts for the Cycra's, so I don't have to worry
> about fitting them in.

That's cheating, plain and simple (said in disgust after mounting a
new set of Acerbis just yesterday).

JayC
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

On Sep 20, 10:48 am, JayC <j....RemoveThis@sysmatrix.net> wrote:
> > Ride in Louisiana much? Trust me an " makes all the difference.
>
> Ride in New England much? Take a tape measure into the woods with you
> next time. I'll put money on it NOT making a difference. Seriously -
> do it.

Regardless of the measurment, you don't have to lean as much to get a
narrower set of bars thru a given width between trees. That equals
less fatigue in my book.
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

On Sep 19, 4:52 pm, mxphlipper <mxphlip... RemoveThis @bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Got a set of KX high ProTaper Contour's from Blanco to try on my
> KLX450.
>
> They're cut to 29.5". I used 28.25 on my YZ250.
>
> What's everyone else using?

I'm at stock (31") on my Fasst Flexxbars. What I've found works well
for me is to pay attention where my hands want to be. For example, I
remember on my (now departed) XR, my thumb knuckle would rub on the
throttle housing causing a blister (on the thumb, not the housing). I
trimmed those bars until the grips were where my hands wanted to be.

I think people's personal preferred bar widths vary not only by
individual, but also by bend. I seem to recall in my enduro-riding
days, I'd run 29.5" (CR Hi/CR Lo? can't remember) and that seemed
right for the Lamson-bend Renthals I ran later too. Today I use, as I
mentioned above, Fasst Flexxbars and their (stock) 31" seems pretty
good, but sometimes I do find my hands hitting the inside "thick area"
on the Grab-On grips I use, so maybe 0.5" less would be optimal for
me, on those bars.

All measurements are on the bar, ignoring the effect of barkbusters.

OTOH, when I rode enduros in Western Washington (state, not the
District of Columbia), which frequently would offer VERY tight woods
work, I experimented with MUCH narrower bars, including mini-bike-type
bars so the crossbar would be shorter and allow room for the perches.

My advise would be to ride & see where your hands gravitate to and if
they're inside the center of the grips, trim off 05" and repeat.

If, on the other hand, you ride events (or "trail race") on trails
with very closely spaced trees, then trim say 0.5" off until you
notice your hands are starting to get near the barkbusters.

On a related note, the bend of the barkbusters significantly effects
the ability to clip a tree and keep going. The original Bark Busters
(tm) had a single very sharp bend so the portion of the guard that hit
the tree was perpendicular to the direction of (intended) travel.
Today, most guards make a curving bend. I had a set (I don't recall
the brand) that made two ~45-degree bends ~4-6" apart providing a
~4-6" portion, oriented 45 degrees to the (intended) direction of
travel that would contact the tree. These worked great for the at
speed "bash and deflect" move.

-Joe
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

Whelan - '02 200exc (x2) & '04 MTD 38 wrote:
>
> My advise would be to ride & see where your hands gravitate to and if
> they're inside the center of the grips, trim off 05" and repeat.
>
> If, on the other hand, you ride events (or "trail race") on trails
> with very closely spaced trees, then trim say 0.5" off until you
> notice your hands are starting to get near the barkbusters.

Everyone other than myself must have small hands. Measured just
now sitting at my desk and my palms are 4" wide, not including thumbs,
and not gripping anything. My hands are wider than the grips on my new
2008 KTM 450 XCR-W.

Nothing new to me as I have full sized ProGrip 714's on my 2003. The
problem is in having enough straight 7/8" bar space for grips and
controls. I don't like cutting brake and clutch levers because I want
the full length and leverage, partially for my big hands.

This topic has come up on KTMtalk where it was noted at least one
professional rider cuts his bars in the middle and welds the halves back
together so as to maintain grip space.
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

>On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 08:48:47 -0700, JayC <jwc.RemoveThis@sysmatrix.net> wrote:

>> Ride in Louisiana much? Trust me an " makes all the difference.
>
>Ride in New England much? Take a tape measure into the woods with you
>next time. I'll put money on it NOT making a difference. Seriously -
>do it.
>
>> I've got triple clamp mounts for the Cycra's, so I don't have to worry
>> about fitting them in.
>
>That's cheating, plain and simple (said in disgust after mounting a
>new set of Acerbis just yesterday).
>
>JayC
********************************************

Jay,
Some of the trails that I have been guiding Phlipper through (in
Louisiana) have sections where the trees are about 24" apart.
Size does matter. <G>

Most dirt bike bars are 32" wide.
The special "Enduro" bend bars (Hawkins High Bend Pro-Tapers are what
I use) are usually 30.5" wide. Most of the time, I can worm my bars
(31.5" including barkbusters) through the trees, but that is my
specialty.

Phil and I had a great ride last weekend on the mountainous trails
of the TrainRobbers area last weekend. I'll be back up there this next
Sunday.

This Saturday, three of us are going up to New Blaine, AR, to work
trail in advance of next month's ISDT Reunion Ride'07. Instead of the
normal AHRMA cross country race, this race will be more like the new
"Qualifier" style enduros. It's going to be FUN!
Everyone come join us.
http://www.ahrma.org/calendar.htm#cc
http://www.ahrma.org/previews/new_blaine_entry.pdf



Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

On Sep 20, 8:06 am, JayC <j... DeleteThis @sysmatrix.net> wrote:
>
> Anyone who says otherwise is selling something.

I disagree and I don't have anything for sale.

A perfect example: at WUDI in '04, I was ahead of Ted Cassell winding
through some tight trees at a good clip. I slipped between two trees
with millimeters to spare on either end and heard a thud immediately
afterward. Ted's barkbusters hit both trees and stopped him dead - I
believe his bars had been cut down some, but not as much as mine.

I forget the width, but my bars were cut as narrow as I could possibly
get them. The kill switch and headlight switch were mounted down by
the lower triple clamp and the barkbusters had to be "custom
engineered" to get them to fit.

Another example: During the Delaware Enduro in 1989 the trail led us
through a barn. The barn had fences to guide cattle (like the line at
burger king). I had just bought my XR600 and hadn't yet cut the bars
down, and they didn't fit between the fences. Everyone else rode
through, but I had to loft the front end up to get the bars/levers up
on the fence rails and then bulldog the bike through with the front
wheel off of the ground. It sucked.

Bikes with wide bars feel very foreign and wrong to me now.

Craig
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

"Craig" ...
> JayC wrote:
>>
>> Anyone who says otherwise is selling something.
>
> I disagree and I don't have anything for sale.
>
> A perfect example: at WUDI in '04, I was ahead of Ted Cassell winding
> through some tight trees at a good clip. I slipped between two trees
> with millimeters to spare on either end and heard a thud immediately
> afterward. Ted's barkbusters hit both trees and stopped him dead - I
> believe his bars had been cut down some, but not as much as mine.
>
> I forget the width, but my bars were cut as narrow as I could possibly
> get them. The kill switch and headlight switch were mounted down by
> the lower triple clamp and the barkbusters had to be "custom
> engineered" to get them to fit.
>
> Another example: During the Delaware Enduro in 1989 the trail led us
> through a barn. The barn had fences to guide cattle (like the line at
> burger king). I had just bought my XR600 and hadn't yet cut the bars
> down, and they didn't fit between the fences. Everyone else rode
> through, but I had to loft the front end up to get the bars/levers up
> on the fence rails and then bulldog the bike through with the front
> wheel off of the ground. It sucked.
>
> Bikes with wide bars feel very foreign and wrong to me now.
>
> Craig

There's TST and then there's ridiculous.
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods 

"Wudsracer" <

>>That's cheating, plain and simple (said in disgust after mounting a
>>new set of Acerbis just yesterday).
>>
>>JayC
> ********************************************
>
> Jay,
> Some of the trails that I have been guiding Phlipper through (in
> Louisiana) have sections where the trees are about 24" apart.
> Size does matter. <G>
>
> Most dirt bike bars are 32" wide.
> The special "Enduro" bend bars (Hawkins High Bend Pro-Tapers are what
> I use) are usually 30.5" wide. Most of the time, I can worm my bars
> (31.5" including barkbusters) through the trees, but that is my
> specialty.
>
> Phil and I had a great ride last weekend on the mountainous trails
> of the TrainRobbers area last weekend. I'll be back up there this next
> Sunday.
>
> This Saturday, three of us are going up to New Blaine, AR, to work
> trail in advance of next month's ISDT Reunion Ride'07. Instead of the
> normal AHRMA cross country race, this race will be more like the new
> "Qualifier" style enduros. It's going to be FUN!
> Everyone come join us.
> http://www.ahrma.org/calendar.htm#cc
> http://www.ahrma.org/previews/new_blaine_entry.pdf
>
>
>
> Wudsracer/Jim Cook
> Smackover Racing
> '06 Gas Gas DE300
> '82 Husqvarna XC250
> Team LAGNAF

Jim
all this talk of bar trim has me wondering.. I used to ride with leather
work gloves and when one knuckle got hit I knew one inch needed off if I hit
two knuckles then 2 inches.... then I discovered barkbusters and I was less
concerned about bar width because my knuckles didn't swell up as much after
riding with them...

trainrobbers was a nice section to ride... thanks for taking me on the
"wider" trails... I did note that there were a couple sections that looked a
bit skinny... I think Deb's pampera could have be converted into a serious
woods weapon, the steering was so effortless I could have mounted a set of
xr50 handle bars on it, then the widest thing on the trail would be JayC's
butt. did you know Honda Fourtrax comes with electric power steering on
them, I wonder how much weight that would put on a wuds set up bike?? would
the narrow bar benefit be offset by the weight? so will it be 2010 or 2012
when dirtbikes come fuelinjected powersteering coffee cup holders, ya know
quads, only slightly thinner??
john
bars come pre trimmed & protected (if you buy it right)
 >> Stay informed about: What's your h-bar width for the woods