Wrench advice needed

I googled, etc., and I got frustrated so I'm hoping a wrench-head here might
clue me in.

Plain old request version:
A buddy's evo needs a rear rotor and I wanna do it for him, but there ain't
no master link on a belt drive. Someone talk to me about rear wheel removal
on a belt drive, please? Do I have to raise this thing high as all git-out
to end up with the wheel free? Once I get going on it I'll prolly figger it
out, but any clues going in would be really, really appreciated.

Why I'm askin' version:
I been buggin' this guy about the squeek in his brakes for a while, all last
season this FXDWG needed rear brake work. My man is headed overseas, prolly
Afghanistan. I need to do him this solid but I got no manual to work from
that covers early '90s hardware. If'n I don't do it, it ain't gettin' done,
he's funny that way and I can't really explain it so that it'll make sense
to anyone else. I gotta do this, I'm sure it'll come out okay once I get
going on it, but any helpful hints would be really really appreciated.

--
Don
Concede to idiot cagers. Right of Way is irrelevant during the collision.
No bozo to reply

Stingy Bastard wrote:

snippity

> A buddy's evo needs a rear rotor and I wanna do it for him, but there ain't
> no master link on a belt drive. Someone talk to me about rear wheel removal
> on a belt drive, please? Do I have to raise this thing high as all git-out
> to end up with the wheel free? Once I get going on it I'll prolly figger it
> out, but any clues going in would be really, really appreciated.

snip

I haven't worked on a Dyna, but on a softail, you can get a jack up
under the tranny area and lift it up so the rear wheel is free of the
ground. High is better, cuz you're going to have to roll the wheel out
from under the fender. Undo the chain adjusters, the axle nut, pull the
axle and drop the wheel. There'll be spacers on each side of the wheel.
I don't know about Dynas, but on the softails there is a spacer
between the caliper carrier and the wheel as well.

The wheel should roll forward far enough to get the belt off the pulley
and then you can get the wheel out. You probably already know the that
the rotor bolts and almost certainly loctited to a fare-the-well and
that you'll need at least Kroil, and maybe heat as well to break them loose.

That's it, as far as I recall. Nothing all that special about it. You
know to keep the spacers on the same sides, in the same order, and if
there's any difference to keep them facing the same way the were when
they came loose and rolled under the beer fridge. FWIW, I hate cotter
pins and usually use a hairpin spring clip in the castle nut on the axle
instead. Easier to remove and I can reuse it for eight or ten years.

Good time to lube bearings while the wheel's out and the check the
pulley for wear and chips and suchlike, but you already know that and
don't need me to tell you that sort of thing.
--
StT
way cleaner doing all this in my memory in back of this keyboard than in
the garage...