bulb failure sensor.
Part number1362370
Snipped from volvo usenet
"James Sweet" <jamessweet RemoveThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:FTTgj.3361$K%6.2051@trndny04...
>
> "Dean H." <moto RemoveThis @groove.calm> wrote in message
> news:uZqdnd1Y-uR6ah7anZ2dnUVZ_oCvnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I finished parting together a Frankenvolvo for my daughter who
>> pretty much totalled the base car (1992 740 wagon) using parts from my
>> buddy's 1994 940 wagon which wouldn't pass emissions and was pronounced
>> "not
>> worth fixing".
>>
>> I got the whole thing done, I thought, then found that none of the three
>> brake lights are working. One tailight is from the original car and one
>> is
>> from the donor car, but I doubt that's the problem. I checked the fuse
>> and
>> that's OK. I checked the bulbs and they are okay. I did a visual on the
>> switch and its function looks OK. My old multimeter bit the dust so I
>> bought
>> a new one today but haven't gone probing yet. All the other lights work
>> fine
>> using the common ground that the brake lights use.
>>
>> I think I can probably test the obvious stuff but maybe one of you knows
>> something that might be eluding me, especially something that crash
>> damage
>> might cause. I'm stumped and get frustrated with electronics diagnosis,
>> so
>> any hints will really help a lot.
>>
>> Off to a big meeting tonight but I can answer the stuff I forgot to
>> include
>> later on tonight.
>>
>> BTW, $320 to recharge an old A/C system with 2lb 6oz of R12...
>>
>> I shoulda just called it totalled and left it at that. The things we do
>> for
>> those we love...
>>
>
>
> Check the bulb failure sensor.
This may be the culprit. I'm trying to find a brake light relay and this is
as close to that as I can find, looking for relay diagrams...
The switch checks out fine but runs counterintuitive. That is, the switch is
pushed in and on, supplying 12V when the brake pedal isn't touched. Pushing
on the brake pedal releases the switch and cuts the juice. So, a 12V signal
keeps the brake lights off. Remove the 12V signal and some gizmo should
switch on the lights.
But, I don't see anything relating brake lights to a single relay. But the
"bulb failure sensor" is right there on the realy panel (behind the fuses).
Maybe the relay shorted out and fried when the taillight got crushed and
filled with snow.
There's a headlight relay, but I doubt that's connected. Anyway, I can try
those two just by parts swapping off the donor car, I think.
>
> Baffles me why anyone uses R-12 anymore, you can convert the system to
> R-134 including all new seals and rubber hoses for a couple hundred bucks,
> then it's only around $30 to charge it. AC is not difficult to work on,
> you need a few specialized tools but even those are not expensive.
Well, including [parts that's not a ton cheaper unless you plan on multiple
recharges. It's a done deal. And the people considered that option, but had
seemingly good reasons to stick with the refrigerant of design. I knew
beforehand that there are very significant differences of efficiency between
the new and old stuff. The guy has been doing auto A/C for 50 years and will
just talk your ear off. He says the condenser isn't right for R-134 and a
hot day will really overwork the system and have pressures too high or some
such thing.
He did some value extra checking my work with flourescent dye in the oil,
and heated my dryer filter twide to reclaim the dessicant, and did his best
to get the oil quantity right in the system (not easy without a full flush
of the system which I didn't do.
>
> the 740/940 wagons are great cars, what better can you get for the money?
I have been very happy with the many Volvos I have owned over the years. And
I flog them hard too.
The old rear drive cars are a pleasure to work on.
Thanks for your response, BTW.
-Dean
rambling...
>> Stay informed about: WTFOT: Auto electrics 
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