"big stinkie" <andythe.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1108174721.891772.56750@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
GreasyRider©@invalid.com wrote:
> Stopped by my local auto parts store to pick up a replacement bulb
for
> the truck today. Browsing the rack I discovered a direct replacement
> for not only my truck but the Harley. My unit is a '97 FLHTCi and
uses
> the 9003ST. The cost was $19.95 which is about $12 over the standard
> halogen. It's those new Sylvania Silverstar bulbs which are intensely
> white. Current draw is the same so no worry about overloading
> anything. Just thought I'd pass it along for what it's worth.
(snipster)
FWIW, I did some research and found that yer regular headlamps
on a cage, and probably a bike, can be made much brighter by
simply letting them operate at full voltage. By the time the
voltage goes through all the switches and crap, the voltage is
often well below 12 volts. The lamps are designed to operate
at 13.8 or there abouts. Checked the voltage on my Suburban,
and found that it was 11.78 volts. There was a chart I found
on the net that said a bulb at that voltage was about 70 percent
efficient.
Sooooo, I rigged up a wiring harness that uses the existing
wiring to switch relays. The relays feed the lamps right from the
battery via a 10 ga wire. Noticeable difference in
brightness. Plus, I fashioned it so the low beams stay on
when you hit the high beams. Works fine.
Here's a link to the diagram I made.
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://home.earthlink.net/~andythe/id14.html" target="_blank">http://home.earthlink.net/~andythe/id14.html</a>
Obviously I left out the ground wires and fuses in the
diagram. I highly recommend that you fuse the dickens
out of any modification you make like this. Otherwise
you could end up with a rather spectacular fire under
the hood of yer cage.
Andy aka Big Stinkie
That probably took more time in the planning stage than it did to put it
together.
Willy<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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