Old Honda bolts stripped

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

"Gene Cash" <gcash RemoveThis @autobogonzap.cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:veg38dvh.fsf@cfl.rr.com...
> chateau.murray.takethisout RemoveThis @dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) writes:
>
> > Ig <elrogigor RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I was CAREFULLY trying to remove the bolts to the side engine plate
> > > (to clean out the oil screen) and stripped two of the three bolts.
> >
> > Do you mean they sheared, or you stripped the threads getting them out?
> >
> > If the former, then they need to be drilled out. If the latter, then
> > you'll need to put a Timesert or Helicoil repair in.
> >
> > Unless you know what you're doing, both are dealer/engineer jobs, but
> > inexpensive.
>
> Or maybe he just rounded the heads, by not using an impact driver.
>
> In which case a wise man once said: "With a Dremel tool and a cut-off
> wheel, EVERYTHING takes a flat-blade screwdriver"
>

Or apply a drill a touch larger than the thread size to the bolt head until
the head comes free, pop the cover off and apply heat and mole grips.

If it's *really* siezed, centre-punch the remains of the bolt, extremely
carefully apply a series of drill bits until almost at the minor diameter of
the thread followed by a dremel with a carbide burr then pick up the end of
the thread with a sharp chisel and wind it into a coil with a pair of
long-nosed pliers to remove.

Resist the lure of "easy-out" - they're a lot harder to remove when they
snap off in the remains of the bolt!

HTH
--
Dave H.
(The engineer formerly known as Homeless)

"Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men" -
Douglas Bader
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

If you had a manual, owners or workshop, you would see that the "trick" is
to use an impact driver, available for $10-20 at auto parts and department
stores. Preferably BEFORE you strip it. A couple of sharp raps with a hammer
first (with suitable blunt object in between) will help a lot as well.
hth

Hank


"Dave H." <hopefuldave DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:YD2Th.74$%K5.73@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>
> "Gene Cash" <gcash DeleteThis @autobogonzap.cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:veg38dvh.fsf@cfl.rr.com...
> > chateau.murray.takethisout DeleteThis @dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) writes:
> >
> > > Ig <elrogigor DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I was CAREFULLY trying to remove the bolts to the side engine plate
> > > > (to clean out the oil screen) and stripped two of the three bolts.
> > >
> > > Do you mean they sheared, or you stripped the threads getting them
out?
> > >
> > > If the former, then they need to be drilled out. If the latter, then
> > > you'll need to put a Timesert or Helicoil repair in.
> > >
> > > Unless you know what you're doing, both are dealer/engineer jobs, but
> > > inexpensive.
> >
> > Or maybe he just rounded the heads, by not using an impact driver.
> >
> > In which case a wise man once said: "With a Dremel tool and a cut-off
> > wheel, EVERYTHING takes a flat-blade screwdriver"
> >
>
> Or apply a drill a touch larger than the thread size to the bolt head
until
> the head comes free, pop the cover off and apply heat and mole grips.
>
> If it's *really* siezed, centre-punch the remains of the bolt, extremely
> carefully apply a series of drill bits until almost at the minor diameter
of
> the thread followed by a dremel with a carbide burr then pick up the end
of
> the thread with a sharp chisel and wind it into a coil with a pair of
> long-nosed pliers to remove.
>
> Resist the lure of "easy-out" - they're a lot harder to remove when they
> snap off in the remains of the bolt!
>
> HTH
> --
> Dave H.
> (The engineer formerly known as Homeless)
>
> "Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men" -
> Douglas Bader
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

Hank wrote:
> If you had a manual, owners or workshop, you would see that the "trick" is
> to use an impact driver, available for $10-20 at auto parts and department
> stores. Preferably BEFORE you strip it. A couple of sharp raps with a hammer
> first (with suitable blunt object in between) will help a lot as well.
> hth
>
In between what?

Ian Singer

--


=========================================================================
See my homepage at http://www.iansinger.com
hosted on http://www.1and1.com/?k_id=10623894
All genealogy is stored in TMG from http://www.whollygenes.com
Charts and searching using TNG from http://www.tngsitebuilding.com
I am near Toronto Canada, can I tell where you are from your reply?
=========================================================================
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

In article <585bvaF2e52c9U1.TakeThisOut@mid.individual.net>,
Ian Singer <iansinger.TakeThisOut@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Hank wrote:
> > If you had a manual, owners or workshop, you would see that the "trick" is
> > to use an impact driver, available for $10-20 at auto parts and department
> > stores. Preferably BEFORE you strip it. A couple of sharp raps with a hammer
> > first (with suitable blunt object in between) will help a lot as well.
> > hth
> >
> In between what?

The hammer and the impact driver. Presumably to keep the impact driver
from getting dinged up.

Me, I just pound on the thing. By the time I've mushroomed the back of
the driver so badly that I need to replace it, I figure it will have
paid for itself.

--
Later,
John

johajohn.TakeThisOut@indianahoosiers.edu

'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

With steel bolts and aluminum cases, you get the bolts electrically welding
themselves in place over time (which is why old bikes are harder to get
apart than steel into steel or iron old cars). Even before you start in with
the impact driver, soak around the bolts with a *good* penetrating lube
(like Kroil, which is likely the best).
When you go to re-assemble the beastie, put a dab of anti-seize lube on the
bolts (and you could also use stainless bolts). If you need security for
bolts, use Locktite, not rust or corrosion...

"Hank" <ursa.TakeThisOut@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
news:gs3Th.23240$PV3.230501@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
> If you had a manual, owners or workshop, you would see that the "trick" is
> to use an impact driver, available for $10-20 at auto parts and department
> stores. Preferably BEFORE you strip it. A couple of sharp raps with a
> hammer
> first (with suitable blunt object in between) will help a lot as well.
> hth
>
> Hank
>
>
> "Dave H." <hopefuldave.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:YD2Th.74$%K5.73@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>>
>> "Gene Cash" <gcash.TakeThisOut@autobogonzap.cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:veg38dvh.fsf@cfl.rr.com...
>> > chateau.murray.takethisout.TakeThisOut@dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) writes:
>> >
>> > > Ig <elrogigor.TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > I was CAREFULLY trying to remove the bolts to the side engine plate
>> > > > (to clean out the oil screen) and stripped two of the three bolts.
>> > >
>> > > Do you mean they sheared, or you stripped the threads getting them
> out?
>> > >
>> > > If the former, then they need to be drilled out. If the latter, then
>> > > you'll need to put a Timesert or Helicoil repair in.
>> > >
>> > > Unless you know what you're doing, both are dealer/engineer jobs, but
>> > > inexpensive.
>> >
>> > Or maybe he just rounded the heads, by not using an impact driver.
>> >
>> > In which case a wise man once said: "With a Dremel tool and a cut-off
>> > wheel, EVERYTHING takes a flat-blade screwdriver"
>> >
>>
>> Or apply a drill a touch larger than the thread size to the bolt head
> until
>> the head comes free, pop the cover off and apply heat and mole grips.
>>
>> If it's *really* siezed, centre-punch the remains of the bolt, extremely
>> carefully apply a series of drill bits until almost at the minor diameter
> of
>> the thread followed by a dremel with a carbide burr then pick up the end
> of
>> the thread with a sharp chisel and wind it into a coil with a pair of
>> long-nosed pliers to remove.
>>
>> Resist the lure of "easy-out" - they're a lot harder to remove when they
>> snap off in the remains of the bolt!
>>
>> HTH
>> --
>> Dave H.
>> (The engineer formerly known as Homeless)
>>
>> "Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men" -
>> Douglas Bader
>>
>>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

On Thu, 12 Apr 2007 02:17:18 GMT, "Ron Seiden"
<subronseiden.DeleteThis@verizon.net> wrote:

>When you go to re-assemble the beastie, put a dab of anti-seize lube on the
>bolts...

All hail the mighty anti-seize.... Every time I work on the bike, I
take my tools and my bottle of grey goo..... I put it on every
fastener that I remove... makes future disassemblies easier...

One thing though, isn't there a trend for the part to work it's way
back apart, from the now lack of "seizing"? (When I changed my
handlebars this past weekend, I used it on the 4 bolts that hold the
clamps down.....)
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

On 11 Apr, 22:35, Gene Cash <g... RemoveThis @autobogonzap.cfl.rr.com> wrote:

>
> Actually, I've never seen an impact driver mentioned in an owner's or
> service manual. It's not even in my Honda Common Service Manual which
> SHOULD have it, if anything should.
>


> But yes, it's indispensable, especially on older bikes.
>

What he said. I bought a good quality one... oh, more than 25 years
ago, and when I'm working on any old bike, it's about the first tool I
reach for.
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

In article <abxdg6bk.fsf RemoveThis @cfl.rr.com>,
Gene Cash <gcash RemoveThis @autobogonzap.cfl.rr.com> wrote:

> John Johnson <null RemoveThis @invalid.com> writes:
>
> > In article <585bvaF2e52c9U1 RemoveThis @mid.individual.net>,
> > Ian Singer <iansinger RemoveThis @sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >
> > > Hank wrote:
> > > > If you had a manual, owners or workshop, you would see that the
> > > > "trick" is to use an impact driver, available for $10-20 at auto
> > > > parts and department stores. Preferably BEFORE you strip it. A
> > > > couple of sharp raps with a hammer first (with suitable blunt
> > > > object in between) will help a lot as well. hth
> > > >
> > > In between what?
> >
> > The hammer and the impact driver. Presumably to keep the impact driver
> > from getting dinged up.
> >
> > Me, I just pound on the thing. By the time I've mushroomed the back of
> > the driver so badly that I need to replace it, I figure it will have
> > paid for itself.
>
> Keerist! What are ya, Paul Bunyon? If someone mushroomed my Craftsman
> driver, I'd be like "buddy! old PAL!" while slowly backing towards the
> door and getting ready to run. In 10 years of beating the living hell
> out of it, I've knocked some paint off.

Mine's made by Lisle, IIRC. It's not bad quality. I think that I've got
a ding in it so far. So, by the time I've mushroomed the back end, it'll
have earned its keep. Of course, my grandchildren might be doing the
mushrooming.

--
Later,
John

johajohn RemoveThis @indianahoosiers.edu

'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped 

John Johnson wrote:
> In article <abxdg6bk.fsf.RemoveThis@cfl.rr.com>,
> Gene Cash <gcash.RemoveThis@autobogonzap.cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>>John Johnson <null.RemoveThis@invalid.com> writes:
>>
>>
>>>In article <585bvaF2e52c9U1.RemoveThis@mid.individual.net>,
>>> Ian Singer <iansinger.RemoveThis@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hank wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>If you had a manual, owners or workshop, you would see that the
>>>>>"trick" is to use an impact driver, available for $10-20 at auto
>>>>>parts and department stores. Preferably BEFORE you strip it. A
>>>>>couple of sharp raps with a hammer first (with suitable blunt
>>>>>object in between) will help a lot as well. hth
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>In between what?
>>>
>>>The hammer and the impact driver. Presumably to keep the impact driver
>>>from getting dinged up.
>>>
>>>Me, I just pound on the thing. By the time I've mushroomed the back of
>>>the driver so badly that I need to replace it, I figure it will have
>>>paid for itself.
>>
>>Keerist! What are ya, Paul Bunyon? If someone mushroomed my Craftsman
>>driver, I'd be like "buddy! old PAL!" while slowly backing towards the
>>door and getting ready to run. In 10 years of beating the living hell
>>out of it, I've knocked some paint off.
>
>
> Mine's made by Lisle, IIRC. It's not bad quality. I think that I've got
> a ding in it so far. So, by the time I've mushroomed the back end, it'll
> have earned its keep. Of course, my grandchildren might be doing the
> mushrooming.

Anyone who is putting a sacrificial block between their hammer and
their hand impact driver is probably a lot like Cheech and Chong's
neighbor in "Cheech and Chong's Next Movie". You know, the guy with
the once-immaculate '55 T-Bird[1] and all his tools hung on the wall
with an outline painted around each one.

I have a cheap and cheerful $10 Chinese "Buffalo" brand impact driver
(similar to this: http://www.bostonindustrial.com/23drimdrset.html)
and the end you hammer on is slightly banged up looking, but one of my
great grandkids will still be using it if one of their buddies doesn't
permanently "borrow" it.

I'm a believer in anti-sieze, not for all fasteners, though, and I
agree with whoever said watch your torque values when you use it,
the lubricating effect can easily lead to broken screws or stripped
threads if you torque to the manual's recommended torque values.

[1] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080520/quotes
[After shifting gasoline that has spilt on their clothes, Chong tries
to light a joint.]
Chong: You got a light, man?
Chong: Huh, oh yeah, here
[hands him a lighter]
Chong: Hey I don't think you better light it in here, man.
Chong: Why?
Cheech: Ah, these gas fumes, man.
Chong: Oh man.
[flicks the lighter]
Cheech: I don't know.
[the inside of the car explodes]

--
'01 SV650S '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13
OMF #7
 >> Stay informed about: Old Honda bolts stripped