Fuel injection?

scrape wrote:

> <bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote:

>>But I don't understand the mechanism: Boiling brake fluid in the lines?
>>Some magical "I am hot and I'm not going to work any more as soon as
>>I can stop without killing anybody" sensor? I've had overheated drum
>>brakes (once and only once, a long time ago when I was very young) and
>>it was absolutely clear when they stopped working. This is different --
>>they stopped working while I was in Walmart.
>
> Change the brake fluid. It absorbs moisture over time. It gets
> darker as it does.

Good idea. First I gotta figure out how to get that damn cover off.
How does that account for what happened?

> Go fast and aim for where the trees aren't.

Works for skiing too.

--
Cheers, Bev
============================================================
"To liberals, building a wall across the Mexican border is a
violation of the Voting Rights Act." -- Ann Coulter
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:20:06 -0800 (PST),
justwaitafrekinminute RemoveThis @gmail.com wrote:


>I should note that I am very new to this group, that seems to be very
>on topic. if I am causing a problem here, you all let me know and I
>can take this off list... at least on my end.

Not unless you're RadRick in disguise.
(not very inside joke)


----
Go fast and aim for where the trees aren't.
----
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:26:26 -0800, The Real Bev
<bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote:

>scrape wrote:
>
>> <bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>>But I don't understand the mechanism: Boiling brake fluid in the lines?
>>>Some magical "I am hot and I'm not going to work any more as soon as
>>>I can stop without killing anybody" sensor? I've had overheated drum
>>>brakes (once and only once, a long time ago when I was very young) and
>>>it was absolutely clear when they stopped working. This is different --
>>>they stopped working while I was in Walmart.
>>
>> Change the brake fluid. It absorbs moisture over time. It gets
>> darker as it does.
>
>Good idea. First I gotta figure out how to get that damn cover off.
>How does that account for what happened?

Someone else will speak up with better knowledge of it than I, but
the water will boil at 212, the brake fluid won't boil until 350+
depending on what type it is.

>> Go fast and aim for where the trees aren't.
>
>Works for skiing too.

Yep.


----
Go fast and aim for where the trees aren't.
----
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

scrape wrote:

> <bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>scrape wrote:
>>>
>>> Change the brake fluid. It absorbs moisture over time. It gets
>>> darker as it does.
>>
>>Good idea. First I gotta figure out how to get that damn cover off.
>>How does that account for what happened?
>
> Someone else will speak up with better knowledge of it than I, but
> the water will boil at 212, the brake fluid won't boil until 350+
> depending on what type it is.

Duh! Forget I asked.

>>> Go fast and aim for where the trees aren't.
>>
>>Works for skiing too.
>
> Yep.

--
Cheers, Bev
=======================================================================
"Windows Freedom Day: a holiday that moves each year, the date of which
is calculated by adding up the total amount of time a typical person
must spend restarting windows and then determining how many work weeks
that would correspond to." -- Trygve Lode
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:20:06 -0800 (PST),
justwaitafrekinminute DeleteThis @gmail.com wrote:

>
>I should note that I am very new to this group, that seems to be very
>on topic. if I am causing a problem here, you all let me know and I
>can take this off list... at least on my end.
>
>Scotty

On the contrary, it appears that you've been very helpful and a
little off-topic is good now and then. Particularly if it can help a
fellow (generic usage) RMDer.


Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE DeleteThis @tx.rr.com
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:52:20 -0800, The Real Bev
<bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote:


>Much like error messages in computer programs. The place where the
>error is found and the place where the error was made are rarely the
>same place

'zactly.

>In a lifetime of driving, I've found that changing the plugs just about
>never solves the problem (although it did on various motorcycles).

Ironically perhaps, that's precisely the way I thought too. Anytime
I'd change the plugs in my previous vehicles they'd look fine and I
could never distinguish a performance difference afterwards. Even the
plug gap appeared to be irrelevant. Automotive plugs just seemed to
last forever and never cause problems.

And that's undoubtedly why I refrained from checking my S-10 plugs
until my brother dogged me about it so much that I finally relented.
And wouldn't you know it, they were horribly fouled. He looked at me
like I was an idiot for not checking them in the first place! D'oh!


Fred Bradford - CrashTestDummy
fjbradfordREMOVE DeleteThis @tx.rr.com
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

On Feb 28, 2:48 am, CrashTestDummy <FBRADFORDrem....DeleteThis@tx.rr.com> wrote:

> Ironically perhaps, that's precisely the way I thought too. Anytime
> I'd change the plugs in my previous vehicles they'd look fine and I
> could never distinguish a performance difference afterwards. Even the
> plug gap appeared to be irrelevant. Automotive plugs just seemed to
> last forever and never cause problems.


When I bought my current car, a 2000 model, it had the plugs that came
from factory, with little VW logos in them. The electrodes were round.
I replaced them the first week I had the car, the difference was very
noticeable.

Three or four months later, I was driving up a freeway and passing a
large 18-wheeler when car started acting like it was missing a
cylinder. Then it cured itself. Next day, same thing, but when it got
"ok", when idling entire car vibrated ... When I arrived home, I
checked the engine. Started pulling the plug cables with the engine
on, an old mechanic told me this was a way to diagnose ignition
problems, if you pull the cable and the engine doesn't change
behavior, that cable is not transmitting spark. The first cable I
pulled, the engine died. Then I started again... One of the cables had
snapped inside the connector thingy that plugs into the spark plug.
New cables, smooth idle again.

This car I own is a nightmare. 1 liter engine, valve seals leaks,
wheels are square, has minor suspension problems... I should trade it
in for a Yamaha Lander.

-- Tiago
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

"The Real Bev" <bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1moxj.79$ZJ5.43@newsfe07.lga...

> More stuff to save. Will google find the meaning of the codes?

Yes, Google for the best way to read codes & interpret them. Anytime a
"Check engine" light comes on, a code has been triggered.

Since your car is pre 1995, it will not have the standard OBDII port found
on later cars. Without a specific factory code reader, you will have to
rely on the code trigger techniqe & read the flashing light.

My guess is the stumbling at higher RPM should be triggering a code.

Are you hearing any funny noises at high-RPM? A rushing/whistling noise
could indicate a clogged catalytic convertor. The usual case of clogging is
that the ceramic honeycomb inside has crumbled, and is blocking the exhaust.
My old '88 E350 liked to to this on a regular ba$i$.

In summary, I would do the following:
-Check engine codes.
-Try injector cleaner
-General tune-up
-Replace plug wires & plugs
-Replace fuel & air filters

Best of luck,

-Jeff-
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

On Feb 28, 6:14 am, Tiago Rocha <diariodastril... DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote:
When I arrived home, I
> checked the engine. Started pulling the plug cables with the engine
> on, an old mechanic told me this was a way to diagnose ignition
> problems, if you pull the cable and the engine doesn't change
> behavior, that cable is not transmitting spark. The first cable I
> pulled, the engine died. Then I started again... One of the cables had
> snapped inside the connector thingy that plugs into the spark plug.
> New cables, smooth idle again.

Man, you must have been wearing some good shoes. That old caddy will
give you what? 15-20,000 volts. If you are going to pull a plug wire
you should really spend 5 bucks and get a pair of insulated spark plug
wire pliers so you don't get zapped.. or use a good set of insulated
pliers that you trust if you must.. just my opinion.

Hey, this will get on topic. The first time I learned that was with an
old street bike I had as a kid. Driving down the street and there was
a huge skip. I looked down and saw a plug wire off so I grabbed it,
almost knocked me off the bike the jolt I got. I have been zapped a
couple of times working on cars too, you don't want to do it unless
you like pain.. Personally, I would not start pulling wires... but
that's just me;)

Scotty

> -- Tiago
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

justwaitafrekinmin....TakeThisOut@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey, this will get on topic. The first time I learned that was with an
> old street bike I had as a kid. Driving down the street and there was
> a huge skip. I looked down and saw a plug wire off so I grabbed it,
> almost knocked me off the bike the jolt I got. I have been zapped a
> couple of times working on cars too, you don't want to do it unless
> you like pain.. Personally, I would not start pulling wires... but
> that's just me;)

A few years ago, I and friend tried to start a bike he wrecked, we
were going to see if engine was ok to sell it for parts - the bike
started slowly... Then it started to rev up and up and up, while
emmiting a huge cloud of two stroke smoke - this was about 7am,
sunday, on a building condo. Because the front end was completely
destroyed by the crash, it had no ignition keys or kill switch (and we
found that the exhaust was leaking badly, you can imagine the noise),
so I had to pull the plug wire to kill the engine. Man, I got "the"
zap. Way worse than when a 220v live wire touched my neck when I was
about 10yo, but at least things were quiet again. Lots of faces on the
windows, though

My car has big insulated plug conectors, hard to leak any electrons at
all, I don't remember what shoes I was wearing, only I know that I had
no problems...

-- Tiago
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

On Feb 28, 1:33 pm, Tiago Rocha <diariodastril....RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> My car has big insulated plug conectors, hard to leak any electrons at
> all, I don't remember what shoes I was wearing, only I know that I had
> no problems...
>
> --  Tiago


Yeah, but it's the bad wire or crack you did not see that will get
ya;) There is a lot of voltage there, and it wants a place to go, and
can jump a pretty good arc to get there.

That leads to another.. stop me if you heard this one;) Assuming you
know most of the cylinders are firing (car is producing spark at the
cap). We know that voltage sent to a plug wire will try to go
somewhere if not through it's designed path (spark plugs). When Tiago
pulled the wires off of his car, the insulation was sufficient to keep
him from being the ground, leaving an open circuit at the end of the
wire. Anyway, if you have bad wires, plug or even a cap, sometimes you
can see the carbon trail from the bad point to ground. Down the side
of the wire, or the cap. It will kind of look like a line drawn with a
very soft pencil. I know most wires a black, and dirty, so you won't
always see this when you have a bad circuit. But if you do see a
carbon trail you can pretty much assume there is a problem there..Um,
and whatever you do don't grab that wire;)

Scotty
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection? 

HellSickle wrote:

> "The Real Bev" <bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1moxj.79$ZJ5.43@newsfe07.lga...
>
>> More stuff to save. Will google find the meaning of the codes?
>
> Yes, Google for the best way to read codes & interpret them. Anytime a
> "Check engine" light comes on, a code has been triggered.
>
> Since your car is pre 1995, it will not have the standard OBDII port found
> on later cars. Without a specific factory code reader, you will have to
> rely on the code trigger techniqe & read the flashing light.
>
> My guess is the stumbling at higher RPM should be triggering a code.
>
> Are you hearing any funny noises at high-RPM? A rushing/whistling noise
> could indicate a clogged catalytic convertor. The usual case of clogging is
> that the ceramic honeycomb inside has crumbled, and is blocking the exhaust.
> My old '88 E350 liked to to this on a regular ba$i$.

Nope, and I think the bastards already replaced it along with all her
hoses and belts, probably at ~30K miles. I once looked at her records
and was aghast at what they did to a brand new car. Either they're
crooks or GM is, although I see no reason why those should be mutually
exclusive.

> In summary, I would do the following:
> -Check engine codes.
> -Try injector cleaner
> -General tune-up
> -Replace plug wires & plugs
> -Replace fuel & air filters
>
> Best of luck,

Thanks, I need a LOT of it.

--
Cheers,
Bev
---------------------------------------
That's my opinion. Ought to be yours.
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel injection?