Pete wrote:
>Now I put the new caliper on , bled it real good with a vacuum bleeder,
>pumped up
>the pedal and everything appeared ok. Took it for a test ride, rear brake
>didn't feel
>right, I stopped, touched the rotor with my hand (glove on) and sum bitch
>red hot.
> Now I am a little confused here and slightly pissed. Is there something I
>missed
>in this process? I used the right fluid Dot4. Is there a certain procedure
>for doing
>dual caliper rear brakes that I might not be aware of?
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/ShowSchematic.asp...eptId=2
There's not much to go wrong inside a brake caliper except for rust and
rubber debris accumulation. Did you bleed both sides of the caliper? Is there
any place in the brake hose where an air bubble could get trapped?
Did you install new brake pads? New pads need about ten hard stops to bed
them in. Then the pedal doesn't feel so spongy.
Hot disk?
My FZR1000 has a similar rigidly mounted dual piston caliber and so does my
GS1100. I have noticed that both rear brake disks tend to run hot and I
suspect it has to do with rigid mounting and maybe a thicker disk.
Rear pads only last 10K miles for me, other riders claim they never touch the
rear brake and pads last 60K miles for them.
Front disks tend to wobble a bit laterally and front forks are not absolutely
rigid.
This knocks the brake pads back from the disk so they don't drag. A
motorcycle with draggy front brakes doesn't steer well, it wants to stand up
under braking.
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