Using 12v lights on a 6v system

Masospaghetti <no RemoveThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote:

> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>
> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks


It may be possible, but it really, really isn't worth the effort on
something like a DT00.


--
BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 Z650
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

On Apr 2, 5:49 pm, Masospaghetti <n....RemoveThis@mail.gatech.edu> wrote:
> Mark Olson wrote:
> > Masospaghetti wrote:
> >> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
> >> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
> >> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>
> >> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
>
> > Possibly, but wouldn't it just be easier to fix the system you have
> > and use it as it was intended? My guess is that you're never going
> > to be able to drive a higher wattage headlamp bulb even if you do
> > convert the system to 12V.
>
> Well, the main problem I have is the bulbs keep burning out b/c of
> vibration (thinking those rubber dampers aren't as soft as they used to
> be) and the replacement bulbs are expensive. And there are LEDs in 12v
> forms that would fix the issue altogether.
>
> The headlight is fine the way it is, i'm more concerned about the other
> lights, especially the turn signals and instrument lights.

If you do a google search:

"6 volt" LED bulbs

It'll turn up a bunch of sources for 6 volt LEDs.
Lots of old 6 volt autos around.

Or maybe you could connect two six volt
electrical systems in series.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

Mark Olson wrote:
> Masospaghetti wrote:
>> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
>> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
>> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>>
>> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
>
> Possibly, but wouldn't it just be easier to fix the system you have
> and use it as it was intended? My guess is that you're never going
> to be able to drive a higher wattage headlamp bulb even if you do
> convert the system to 12V.
>

Well, the main problem I have is the bulbs keep burning out b/c of
vibration (thinking those rubber dampers aren't as soft as they used to
be) and the replacement bulbs are expensive. And there are LEDs in 12v
forms that would fix the issue altogether.

The headlight is fine the way it is, i'm more concerned about the other
lights, especially the turn signals and instrument lights.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

The Older Gentleman wrote:
> Masospaghetti <no DeleteThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote:
>
>> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
>> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
>> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>>
>> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
>
>
> It may be possible, but it really, really isn't worth the effort on
> something like a DT00.
>
>

Would it be more involved than simply changing the flasher and voltage
regulator?

I know a 26-year-old DT100 isn't the greatest thing in the world but its
in damn good shape and i'd like to keep it around for awhile.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

In article <eus8aj$ont$1@news-int.gatech.edu>,
Masospaghetti <no RemoveThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote:

> Mark Olson wrote:
> > Masospaghetti wrote:
> >> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
> >> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
> >> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
> >>
> >> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
> >
> > Possibly, but wouldn't it just be easier to fix the system you have
> > and use it as it was intended? My guess is that you're never going
> > to be able to drive a higher wattage headlamp bulb even if you do
> > convert the system to 12V.
> >
>
> Well, the main problem I have is the bulbs keep burning out b/c of
> vibration (thinking those rubber dampers aren't as soft as they used to
> be) and the replacement bulbs are expensive. And there are LEDs in 12v
> forms that would fix the issue altogether.
>
> The headlight is fine the way it is, i'm more concerned about the other
> lights, especially the turn signals and instrument lights.

rolling your own 6V LED lighting probably wouldn't be that hard, if
you've got much electronics experience. You might also contact a
manufacturer of LED lighting solutions for bikes and see if they'd build
you up some 6V lighting for a reasonable price. Some of those places do
custom work anyway, and it might not be as expensive as you might think.
Just tossing some thoughts out there, fwiw.

--
Later,
John

johajohn RemoveThis @indianahoosiers.edu

'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

Masospaghetti <no.TakeThisOut@mail.gatech.edu> wrote:

> The Older Gentleman wrote:
> > Masospaghetti <no.TakeThisOut@mail.gatech.edu> wrote:
> >
> >> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
> >> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
> >> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
> >>
> >> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
> >
> >
> > It may be possible, but it really, really isn't worth the effort on
> > something like a DT00.
> >
> >
>
> Would it be more involved than simply changing the flasher and voltage
> regulator?
>
> I know a 26-year-old DT100 isn't the greatest thing in the world but its
> in damn good shape and i'd like to keep it around for awhile.

I really don't know enough about electrics. The DT100 may have a
separate reg and rec or they may be combined. As one who's owned a few
small 6v Yamahas, I've always found that if you buy a good battery and
keep it charged, everything works fine.

The headlight is a bit puny, but that has nothing to do with the fact
that it's 6v.

--
BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 Z650
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

On Apr 2, 6:52 pm, Masospaghetti <n... RemoveThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote:
> The Older Gentleman wrote:
> > Masospaghetti <n... RemoveThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote:
>
> >> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
> >> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
> >> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>
> >> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
>
> > It may be possible, but it really, really isn't worth the effort on
> > something like a DT00.
>
> Would it be more involved than simply changing the flasher and voltage
> regulator?
>
> I know a 26-year-old DT100 isn't the greatest thing in the world but its
> in damn good shape and i'd like to keep it around for awhile.

You can buy 6 volt LEDs to fit standard sockets.

I repeat, you can buy 6 volt LEDs to fit standard sockets.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=%226+volt%22+LED+bulbs&btnG=Google+Search

Buy some frikkin 6 volt LED bulbs. Plug the frikkin 6 volt LED bulbs
into the frikkin standard motorcycle sockets. Leave the frikkin
magneto alone.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

If the bulbs are black inside after 'burning out', you may have
a bad connection (intermittent open) between the rectifier
and the battery, which includes the 'ground', (the frame and engine).

Those days Japs fitted a tiny generator that had just enough beef to
get the full load
going. With no lights on, the poor battery was used
to keep the voltage maximum around 6 plus a bit volts.
When the battery is (momentarily) disconnected,
the tiny generator cries: "hurray, I can now make more than
6 volts", and by doing that, blows out any bulb
that is on at the moment.
I had that on my SuZi GT250. (Had a 12V system, but the same sort of
'tiny generator' setting)

When you mount LEDs, the generator will put
more amps into your battery. And that battery will
be bubbling all the way untill all juice is gone.
I once had an empty battery (totally empty I mean), and by wife had
a pair of trousers that
had big holes all over em. (The GT250)

Also distrust any electical wire that is
bolted onto aluminium (engine!). Alu-oxyde is an insulator that breaks
down
around 5 Volts, depending on the thickness
of the oxide. I had that problem with
my 6V R25 BMW. Sandpaper
all those spots.

And sorry for strangely cut-off lines in my reply.
I have an edit window the size of a postage stamp and don't know how
to enlarge it.

Rob.




On Apr 3, 9:39 pm, Masospaghetti <n....TakeThisOut@mail.gatech.edu> wrote:
> Hank wrote:
> > Many micro electrical systems such as yours are designed to closely match
> > the load of the stock bulbs. Thus, if one bulb is burned out the regulator
> > SOMETIMES can't absorb/shunt enough of the excess output and the other bulbs
> > burn out as well. Even if vibration is killing your small bulbs, replacing
> > them with LED's will overload the other bulbs, such as hdlight because the
> > LED's have very low consumption compared to the incandescents. These systems
> > must have all loads in place to operate correctly. i.e. all bulbs and a good
> > battery connected. Removing the regulator might let her get up to 8 or 9
> > volts at full scream, but not 12. Check your voltage at high rpm. If it's
> > more than about 7 you need to add more load to keep it down, like another
> > bulb, a resistor, or check the ground from your regulator. I think you are
> > better off to work with the stock system than re-invent the wheel (yet
> > again). Krusty??
>
> > hth
>
> > Hank
> > "Masospaghetti" <n....TakeThisOut@mail.gatech.edu> wrote in message
> >news:eurqlq$j5u$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
> >> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
> >> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
> >> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>
> >> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
> >> -J
>
> I think you're right --- my bike actually does not have a voltage
> regulator at all, and it doesn't appear to have had one from the
> factory. My voltage is swinging from about 3 volts at idle to over 12 at
> redline. However I think on this bike the headlamp is on its own circuit
> and independent of all of the other lighting.
>
> Thanks for the insight.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

Many micro electrical systems such as yours are designed to closely match
the load of the stock bulbs. Thus, if one bulb is burned out the regulator
SOMETIMES can't absorb/shunt enough of the excess output and the other bulbs
burn out as well. Even if vibration is killing your small bulbs, replacing
them with LED's will overload the other bulbs, such as hdlight because the
LED's have very low consumption compared to the incandescents. These systems
must have all loads in place to operate correctly. i.e. all bulbs and a good
battery connected. Removing the regulator might let her get up to 8 or 9
volts at full scream, but not 12. Check your voltage at high rpm. If it's
more than about 7 you need to add more load to keep it down, like another
bulb, a resistor, or check the ground from your regulator. I think you are
better off to work with the stock system than re-invent the wheel (yet
again). Krusty??

hth

Hank
"Masospaghetti" <no RemoveThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote in message
news:eurqlq$j5u$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>
> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
> -J
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

Hank wrote:
> Many micro electrical systems such as yours are designed to closely match
> the load of the stock bulbs. Thus, if one bulb is burned out the regulator
> SOMETIMES can't absorb/shunt enough of the excess output and the other bulbs
> burn out as well. Even if vibration is killing your small bulbs, replacing
> them with LED's will overload the other bulbs, such as hdlight because the
> LED's have very low consumption compared to the incandescents. These systems
> must have all loads in place to operate correctly. i.e. all bulbs and a good
> battery connected. Removing the regulator might let her get up to 8 or 9
> volts at full scream, but not 12. Check your voltage at high rpm. If it's
> more than about 7 you need to add more load to keep it down, like another
> bulb, a resistor, or check the ground from your regulator. I think you are
> better off to work with the stock system than re-invent the wheel (yet
> again). Krusty??
>
> hth
>
> Hank
> "Masospaghetti" <no DeleteThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote in message
> news:eurqlq$j5u$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
>> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
>> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
>> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>>
>> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
>> -J
>
>

I think you're right --- my bike actually does not have a voltage
regulator at all, and it doesn't appear to have had one from the
factory. My voltage is swinging from about 3 volts at idle to over 12 at
redline. However I think on this bike the headlamp is on its own circuit
and independent of all of the other lighting.

Thanks for the insight.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

So, basically, the battery is functioning as the voltage regulator and
once the battery is toast, the rest of the system blows itself up? The
bulbs that blew WERE black inside. This seems like it'd be horrible for
the battery.

The battery in there is completely dead so I guess that makes sense. I
just bought a voltage regulator off eBay from a DT250 so maybe that will
help things.

oldgeezer wrote:
> If the bulbs are black inside after 'burning out', you may have
> a bad connection (intermittent open) between the rectifier
> and the battery, which includes the 'ground', (the frame and engine).
>
> Those days Japs fitted a tiny generator that had just enough beef to
> get the full load
> going. With no lights on, the poor battery was used
> to keep the voltage maximum around 6 plus a bit volts.
> When the battery is (momentarily) disconnected,
> the tiny generator cries: "hurray, I can now make more than
> 6 volts", and by doing that, blows out any bulb
> that is on at the moment.
> I had that on my SuZi GT250. (Had a 12V system, but the same sort of
> 'tiny generator' setting)
>
> When you mount LEDs, the generator will put
> more amps into your battery. And that battery will
> be bubbling all the way untill all juice is gone.
> I once had an empty battery (totally empty I mean), and by wife had
> a pair of trousers that
> had big holes all over em. (The GT250)
>
> Also distrust any electical wire that is
> bolted onto aluminium (engine!). Alu-oxyde is an insulator that breaks
> down
> around 5 Volts, depending on the thickness
> of the oxide. I had that problem with
> my 6V R25 BMW. Sandpaper
> all those spots.
>
> And sorry for strangely cut-off lines in my reply.
> I have an edit window the size of a postage stamp and don't know how
> to enlarge it.
>
> Rob.
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 3, 9:39 pm, Masospaghetti <n... RemoveThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote:
>> Hank wrote:
>>> Many micro electrical systems such as yours are designed to closely match
>>> the load of the stock bulbs. Thus, if one bulb is burned out the regulator
>>> SOMETIMES can't absorb/shunt enough of the excess output and the other bulbs
>>> burn out as well. Even if vibration is killing your small bulbs, replacing
>>> them with LED's will overload the other bulbs, such as hdlight because the
>>> LED's have very low consumption compared to the incandescents. These systems
>>> must have all loads in place to operate correctly. i.e. all bulbs and a good
>>> battery connected. Removing the regulator might let her get up to 8 or 9
>>> volts at full scream, but not 12. Check your voltage at high rpm. If it's
>>> more than about 7 you need to add more load to keep it down, like another
>>> bulb, a resistor, or check the ground from your regulator. I think you are
>>> better off to work with the stock system than re-invent the wheel (yet
>>> again). Krusty??
>>> hth
>>> Hank
>>> "Masospaghetti" <n... RemoveThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote in message
>>> news:eurqlq$j5u$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
>>>> Is there a way to convert the system to a 12 volt from a 6 volt? If I
>>>> replace the voltage regulator with one meant for a 12 volt system will
>>>> it work? Can my current magneto handle it?
>>>> Its a Yamaha DT100, 1981 with 1900 miles. Thanks
>>>> -J
>> I think you're right --- my bike actually does not have a voltage
>> regulator at all, and it doesn't appear to have had one from the
>> factory. My voltage is swinging from about 3 volts at idle to over 12 at
>> redline. However I think on this bike the headlamp is on its own circuit
>> and independent of all of the other lighting.
>>
>> Thanks for the insight.
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

In article <euuib2$o19$1@news-int.gatech.edu>,
Masospaghetti <no DeleteThis @mail.gatech.edu> wrote:

> So, basically, the battery is functioning as the voltage regulator and
> once the battery is toast, the rest of the system blows itself up?

Pretty much. Actually, every load on the system was the regulator, so
once you burned out one lamp, you'd start popping everything, if what
I've heard is correct.

There's been a couple of good discussions of older 6V systems on this
group in the past, it might be worth digging into the archives and see
what tidbits show up there.

--
Later,
John

johajohn DeleteThis @indianahoosiers.edu

'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system 

On Apr 3, 9:34 am, "Hank" <u....RemoveThis@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
> Check your voltage at high rpm. If it's
> more than about 7 you need to add more load to keep it down, like another
> bulb, a resistor, or check the ground from your regulator. I think you are
> better off to work with the stock system than re-invent the wheel (yet
> again). Krusty??

LED lights in combination with a switchable resistor
ought to be way more reliable than the stock bulbs.
I'd consider going that way. I especially like LED
tail lights to ensure visibility at night.

Adding a shutoff mechanism for the resistor seems like
a good idea for emergency situations where you might
be trying to conserve battery watts.
 >> Stay informed about: Using 12v lights on a 6v system